No beep-beep, no click click

'07 1100 GRiSO, no sound from horns, no clicking relay sound either. (1) Where is the horn relay located, (2) See picture of non-stock wiring (circled), is this a solution to the startus interruptus issue?

Many thanks, DW

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I think that might be the MPH kit, I have never actually seen one but it seems to match the description.
You don't have a horn relay, that's part of the problem
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The horns are fed from fuse A
I have a pair of FIAAM freeway blasters on my GRiSO with a relay, they are super loud, the horn relay needs a direct feed to work well. The existing wiring can be used to supply the relay coil.

Thanks Roy, I will investigate...

Fuse A is still in one piece. Before I start randomly taking stuff apart: (1) has anyone else had this problem? (2) where should I start troubleshooting?

Thanks, DW

Check for power at horn, blue wire. Check for good ground at horn, grey wire.

Gray wire has ground, blue wire no power

Handlebar switch has continuity when depressed

Blue wire also has continuity to ground (?)

It’s a simple circuit but the wiring diagram is poor. So start chasing the power wire coming off the
fuse on its way up to the switch. I’m guessing the switch has no power to it but good continuity?
Is your Brake light working? It’s the same fuse.

Thanks Joe, brake light (#20) is working and the fuse is still in one piece. The connector pictured looks to be where I need to get for #8 "warning horn". Just have to lift the tank a bit and unbolt that coil...[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

If the blue wire has continuity to ground that wire is shorting, possibly trapped under a bolted down part?
But a dead short normally blows the fuse so either there is only a partial earth where it shorts out or the wire is broken as well as shorted.

If continuity to earth when the button is not pressed it is shorted between the horn and button.
If continuity to earth only when the button is pressed the short is between the fuse and the switch.

You may get away with taking the wings off if the damage is obvioius - otherwise it is tank too.
Chase the wire from the fuse up the loom to the switch looking for cracked, torn or trapped wires. You should be able to get a test probe into any connector blocks that it runs to on the way.

Thanks Jon, great minds think alike!
"If the blue wire has continuity to ground that wire is shorting, possibly trapped under a bolted down part?
But a dead short normally blows the fuse so either there is only a partial earth where it shorts out or the wire is broken as well as shorted."

With your multimeter
The green wire is alive from fuse A +12 Volts, you may find it hard to access that so skip to the next step or you should be able to find it at the front brake switch.
The Grey wire is the switch wire, it should show +12 when you press the button (with the key On of course), you can access that at the horns.
The Blue wire at the horn is supposed to be grounded thats what the symbol on the end of the wire means, should read zero Ohms from the terminal at the horn to a chassis bolt.
With your multimeter on Ohms it should show a circuit between the two horn terminals, just a fraction of an Ohm.
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Here is a picture of the FIAAM Freeway Blaster on my bike, I actually had to re-mount them with the mounting bolt sticking up as they cannot tolerate any water trapped in the snail shell
The relay is at the bottom, you can just make out the original horn wiring feeding the relay coil, the blue wire at the top goes to the other horn on the left side.
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The horns are blacked out, it's hard to see them under the tank cheeks.
I have these Freeway Blasters on all my Guzzis, they come as a pair of High & Low tone c/w a relay for $35, I first became aware of them as they were fitted standard to my California II, it had the best horns of any bike I owned.

Sorry - answering off my phone so could not see wiring diagram
Kiwi_Roy is right about the colour codes Blue at the horn is earth, Grey is switched power via the horn button

You definitely need a relay for any horn to work, running all that current through the wimpy wires to the horn button will never work satisfactorily.
How come I have a dog picture, is someone trying to tell me something? LOL

Tank emptied and propped up, wings off. I was able to follow the offending left side wire back to where it joins the main loom, no breaks. The right side checks out with the multimeter thusly: Ground is ground, power is not. it is also not showing 12+ with the bike on and the horn pressed. The bike runs and drives and everything else works. I might just give up and wire the horns to the stock switch with a relay.

You have tried powering them up directly just to make sure they haven't gone kaput?

Pete Roper wrote:

You have tried powering them up directly just to make sure they haven't gone kaput?

Yep, directly connected and in the garage they are quite loud!

guzziownr wrote:

I might just give up and wire the horns to the stock switch with a relay.

hmm

I understand your frustration bit ....okay i am a bit ocd and I would want to know wher the break is:

if the green(v) wire from fuse 1 still has power to activate the stop lights when switched.... Then, where is the break and ground of that wire??

If that is just arcing away somewhere under the tank...you have the potential of battery drain below startable levels or (less dramatic) fuse 1 blows.... or (more dramatic) fire

Or you can leave it

"Then, where is the break and ground of that wire??"

Then you have to ask, are my amateur repairs more dangerous still!

when you are checking for continuity to ground on the gray wire (switchleg for horns), make sure the gray at both horns is disconnected. if it is not disconnected when you perform this test, you could get a false reading to ground because you will be testing through the horn coil

guzziownr wrote:

Tank emptied and propped up, wings off. I was able to follow the offending left side wire back to where it joins the main loom, no breaks. The right side checks out with the multimeter thusly: Ground is ground, power is not. it is also not showing 12+ with the bike on and the horn pressed. The bike runs and drives and everything else works. I might just give up and wire the horns to the stock switch with a relay.

On the right side what do you call power?
The Grey wire is not power, it's a switch wire, only sees 12V when the button is pushed.
You could check the wire continuity from one side to the other, each colour should go from one side to the other.
If you can get one of the grey wires to go +12 with the button pushed use that to wire to a relay coil, the other relay coil can go to ground.
Run from the battery, through a fuse to the relay's 30 terminal
Run from the relay's 87 terminal to both horns
The other horn terminals to ground
You will be amazed how much better the horns work, even the wimpy squeakers will work better.

Chris W wrote:

when you are checking for continuity to  ground on the gray wire (switchleg for horns), make sure the gray at both horns is disconnected. if it is not disconnected when you perform this test, you could get a false reading to ground because you will be testing through the horn coil

Thanks Chris, great info!

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

The Grey wire is not power, it's a switch wire, only sees 12V when the button is pushed.

Dollars to doughnuts there is no power at that button!

I will investigate...

No power, I unplugged the connector and found 12+ on one side, continuity to the button on the other. There was visible corrosion inside the connector so I scraped it clean and washed it out with DeOxit.

Beep beep! we are back in action. Everyone who had corroded connections on their Bingo card should head to the cashier for your prizes.

Thanks to all who responded, a special tip of the chapeau to Chris and Roy for steering me right.