CO Trim at +127

Stock 2015 GRiSO 1200 8V purchased 8/29/20 with 3200 miles.
First post.
I've done a lot of reading up on this in the archives and didn't find an answer.
I thought I'd try to get this awesomely fun machine a remap to see how it could be made even better (cold start have to give it some throttle to keep it running at first, and my biggest issue is the snatchy throttle).
I saved the presumed stock map identified as 2230G803 and loading newly purchased Griso24S-FU2-R-Factory-5490.2018.6.03.bin.
I followed the directions and reset the TPS and Autolearning Parameters.

I think it was at this point that I noticed my CO trim was at +127.

It ran unbelievably horrible with the new map at this point.
Idling at about 950 rpm.
I took it for a warmup ride to set the trim.
Got the trim down to 0 and it's idling between 1200 and 1250.

How in the world did the CO trim get up to +127?
Did autolearning do that? Did new map do that?
Suggestions on easiest determination of best trim setting?
Thanks!
Brent

CO trim data is saved in the eeprom. It's separate from the map. Installing a new map can't affect the CO trim.

Is it possible the PO played wth it? Is the map you saved actually a stock map? If the map was stock, you could set the CO at whatever you wanted, and it would have no effect. CO only becomes active when lambda is deactivated in the map.

If your battery is less than perfect you can sometimes have the CO figure jump around wildly when you hit the start button. If it's problematic make sure you connect another, well charged, battery to the bike whilst mapping or playing with the trim.

Pete Roper wrote:

If your battery is less than perfect you can sometimes have the CO figure jump around wildly when you hit the start button..

WTF?

Yeah. I know it sounds weird and I certainly can't explain it.

It usually coincides with the other thing where if you connect to GD and then start the bike, if the voltage drops below the threshold where the dash blanks out GD freezes and shows all sorts of weird figures.

I just assumed it was a low voltage thing. When you're doing the CO you start the process with the engine off and then start it when it's communicating. If the voltage drop is sufficient it can make the CO go weird and/or won't store the new CO value.

Thank you for the quick responses.
I'm guessing that someone previously played with the CO Trim or the corroded battery caused it to go to +127.
The battery terminals had a fair amount of green corrosion, so I cleaned them up and greased them before (I think) starting the remap and TPS/Relearn process.
I did have a battery tender connected during the remap/TPS/relearn.
Lambda is turned on in the map the bike came with.

As far as the suggested trim setting?

Do I need to get work on tweaking it or be satisfied with 0.
I found an old post on WildGuzzi where Wayne Orwig answered the question -
"So what's the best way to set the trim without a exhaust gas analyzer?

I set it about like a carb idle screw.
Set it a bit too rich. Then lean it out until the idle starts to drop. Richen it back up until the idle speed returns to normal. That is where I stop. For EPA numbers, the setting is going to be a slight RPM drop.

You should be pretty close to zero. I've never run into one yet that benefits from more then a slight tweak."
Beetle responded with "What Wayne said"
Leave it at 0 or get tweaky with it?
Thanks again guys!

If the valves are set correctly, and the throttle body balance is good, then you shouldn't have to adjust it. Leave it at zero. If it idles at 1200-1250, doesn't hunt, or smell rich, leave it. If it smells rich, drop it back to -1 or -2. If idle is rough, or hunts, go to +2 or +3. If you have to go more than +/-5 in either direction, something is wrong.