How do you tell whether a head has been rollerised?

Jongood, you can buy mine for £8k - it’s an end of the line 2016 Rosso Trophy job.

Used warranties are useless for your problem. If the bike keeps running they won’t entertain any sort of claim. The majority of pre 2013 1200 8v offered for sale in UK are ticking bombs. Advertisers stating warranty job or valve update are usually referring to the half arse job MG did with updated flat tappets.

Pete - Buy a boatload of shit supermarket engine oil. Put it in a fancy container and suggest it will fix the flat tappet problem. Sell at a ridiculous price and retire on the profits.
We would be able to tie oil and tappet threads into one and save web resource.

jongood wrote:

So the dealer won't accept that its faulty because it still runs. They are offering me an exchange and promising to be a bit flexible on the deal.

The trouble with this is I really like the GRiSO and even though they are a large dealer with lots of bikes nothing is lighting my fire, and whatever I got I'm probably losing £1000 on it straight away for something I don't really want.

But if I decide to reject that offer and get the GRiSO sorted and document the evidence what grounds have I got to go after them for recompense?

The other risk to this is that the damage is worse than thought and the engine is past the point of economic repair.

This had me checking my GRiSO, but I am a 2015 model so all good phew.

Just a though on the dealer exchange, I guess you are covered under the sale of goods act?

Goods must determine a level of satisfactory quality for the price that the consumer is willing to pay, and meeting the description and relevant factors at time of purchase. These factors might include the level of expectation that an item may conjure, for example, second hand goods will provide much less expectation than that of a brand new product which will have a much higher expectation with regards to its quality and will cause concern about expectation if it has a defect.

Goods should be fit for purpose, i.e that they are capable of carrying out the purpose for what they were designed to do. A seller should express the purpose of their goods and has a responsibility to make sure that they attain that state.

Considering it is a known engineering design fault from MG, any dealer/seller selling one on to a buyer has a duty to disclose that the issue has not been fixed and not repairing it would lead to massive engine failure, clearly making the item not fit for purpose.
Might be worth dropping a few quid down on a solicitor and getting a proper opinion about a refund, repair or replacement (I would be surprised if they could offer you a different bike that you didn't want)
Just my thoughts on it. Stop people selling on defective products and passing them off as good to go.

Ive been holding off posting because I didnt wish to tempt fate but I now think a happy ending is looming.

While exploring my options, I got into discussion with QB Motorcycles at Cradley heath who until recently were a MG dealer and still have and intend to keep an approved workshop for them. The end result is that over the past few weeks they have stripped the heads, measured the tolerances and sent them and photos to Piaggio who have now agreed to supply the new parts FOC and I only have to pay £450 for the labour element.

OK its still a bill that I didnt expect to have and Ive missed most of the summer and I will be talking to the original dealer to see if I can embarrass them into at least making a contribution, but I am pretty impressed that Piaggio/MG are prepared to honour a warranty claim on a 10 year old bike.

Hoping to get it back in the next couple of weeks.

Jon

That's about a good a result as one can hope for. Well done.

That's a serious bargain !

Hooray!

Sounds like Piaggo gave you a gift. I was told in May the flatty warranty period had ended.
You scored.

And you weren't "rogered up the blurter" either. Well done!

I've been following this & my heart went out to you - good result !!!  Well pleased that it's being sorted - nice one.  At least you'll be fit & ready for next season

tvboy wrote:

Sounds like Piaggo gave you a gift. I was told in May the flatty warranty period had ended.
You scored.

Yeah, I was told the same and I think that Pete even mentioned it on these boards.
He scored indeed!

Pete Roper rollerised my 2009 model at 24,000km. It seemed to my layman's ears to be running fine at that stage but when the tappets were removed (I was there) they were gefukten. I've now got 72,000km on the clock and she runs like a dream. I've never had to adjust the tappets and there's still no 'noise' whatsoever when I do the old screwdriver to the ear check. Grisos are a fabulous machine but do yourself a favour: rollerise ASAP!

Hi

My GRiSO (1200 SE Tenni green) has suffered the problems as described above: I need to rollerise.

According to the VIN number, the model year is 2011, so am I right to assume the right kit would kit A?

Can anyone tell me if the kit can be fitted without having to reset the whole engine timing system?
Is there a trick to do this with the engine still mounted in the frame?
Any special tools needed?
Can anyone describe the kit fitting procedure?

Thank you very much for your help and information !
Johan

Johan, you will need either a 'B' kit or an 'A' kit.

Take a rocker cover off and see if your plug tube is sealed by an o'Ring or a circular gasket.

No, you can't do the conversion without removing the timing chain sprockets but this is common sense, not complicated.

Pete

Thank you, Pete.
Our worry is that we would mess up the engine timing.
But I understand that when removing the chain tensioner, there is enough slack?
Or am I talking stupidities here?
Thanks again.

Give me a few hours, I'm about to go to bed. I am also expecting to be summoned into the steaming fleshpots of Canberra for some sort of heart op tomorrow morning but they keep banging on about this and it hasn't happened yet and neither am I dead!

I'll hopefully be able to summarise this before they make me be boring for five days.

Arse!

That's not good, hope all works out well for you!
Have a good night.

Thinking about you, Pete.

I wouldn't. That way lies nightmares. I'm still waiting for the call from the hospital. Very boring.

Johan. Swapping in either an A or a B kit doesn't require removal of the heads and therefore it's very easy to maintain tension on the chain with the sprocket installed to ensure the timing remains where it should be.

As I've said previously the biggest pain in the arse is actually depressing the cam chain tensioner plunger on the left hand cylinder. Just line up the pin that times the sprocket in the 6 O'clock position in relation to the bore before you slide the sprocket off and cabletie it to the side of the head. You can then loosen first the small bolts at the back of the camchain tunnel before removing the four main bolts that retain the cambox and rocker gear and lift the cambox off. The sprocket can just remain tied to the head unmoving until you get the new cambox installed and torqued down and the sprocket can be slipped back on to the cam.

Pete

Hi Pete

Thanks for this information, now at least we know what we are getting ourselves into :-)