First Moto Guzzi! Hello all!

Hey all, just picked up my first Guzzi! I am not really sure what needs to get done to it in terms of preventative maintenance, but it runs good for now. I bought it it saddle bags (C Bow Mount), Mistral exhaust, rear fender eliminator, and a Corbin seat.

Looking to lower the rear suspension, add handlebar risers, and add a windshield.

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Welcome.
What year model? (2016)
As long as it's rollerized! - 2013 & later

Drop the front, as in raise forks thru top triple clamp to the 6th line. It will turn much better.
Try not to lower the rear, just get some Monsanto inya and grow longer legs.

See okuraner here for the risers

ghezzi wrote:

Welcome.
What year model? (2016)
As long as it's rollerized! - 2013 & later

Drop the front, as in raise forks thru top triple clamp to the 6th line. It will turn much better.
Try not to lower the rear, just get some Monsanto inya and grow longer legs.

See okuraner here for the risers

Thanks! Its a 2015, 6100 miles. Will lowering the front result in me leaning on my handle bars more than I already do? I am trying to back off of them, not more on them. Why not lower the rear? I know I've read that the clearance isn't much, but I'm only 140 lbs, so I don't put much load on the suspension.

On that topic, it looks like the only option for a lowering link is Westmoreland in PA, but it's hard to inquire about a part from a business that doesn't take email or phone calls.

Does he have a used set for sale, or is he a contact to get them new?

Welcome to the Ghetto, Bayerische!

Pete (Street)

Hello ! Welcome

Black Moto Guzzi logo on the tank is a wink to the very first GRiSO out from MG design office 

Okuraner makes handle bar risers for the GRiSO.

Lowering the rear will increase the steering angle (rake),making the bike slow and lazy to turn, you may run wide on the exit of corners.

ghezzi wrote:

Okuraner makes handle bar risers for the GRiSO.

Lowering the rear will increase the steering angle (rake),making the bike slow and lazy to turn, you may run wide on the exit of corners.

Willkommen!

The GRiSO's limo-length wheelbase makes it slow enough already. If the sweet beast had clip-ons, it would take a weightlifter to get it around turns!

I thought Westmoreland's was out of business. I haven't been there for years, but might ride that way sometime in next two weeks just cuz I like Pa.'s roads. Will post if they still operate.

Bill

Welcome here

I'd say before doing too much on the suspension to replace the stock Metzelers for real tires. I couldn't believe the difference when I switched to the Michelin Road 5. Others here have their favorite tires but what every you pick just has to be better than the wooden Metzelers.

I like the color too.

So you're 140lbs which...if you're not a mutant, means that you should be no taller than 5.8.
My guess is that you want to lower the back end in the hopes that you might get flat footed on that heavy bike...
Ain't gonna happen. I'm 5.7" and I'm only flat footed with the weight of a passenger so that made me realize that I would bottom out if I had lowered the back so that's that.
Most people here will tell you that the stock suspension components aren't that great but I'll argue that unless you're a tall and heavy bastard, the stock suspension once well sorted (basically adjustments), will work fine even with a very spiritual riding. I've taken that heavy bike on the track a few times and it fared very well despite its weight.
So on the street, just match your skills to a sporty ride and don't worry about lowering anything.
But if you drop the rear, do the same to the front to compensate if not it'll handle like a 3 legged donkey.
If you feel too forward on the handle bar, there are aftermarket ones that will rake you back a bit but the factory brake lines will only allow about an inch so beware.
Get used to the bike for a month or so and you'll know where to improve things to your ergos...

Grisonut wrote:

So you're 140lbs which...if you're not a mutant, means that you should be no taller than 5.8.
My guess is that you want to lower the back end in the hopes that you might get flat footed on that heavy bike...
Ain't gonna happen. I'm 5.7" and I'm only flat footed with the weight of a passenger so that made me realize that I would bottom out if I had lowered the back so that's that.
Most people here will tell you that the stock suspension components aren't that great but I'll argue that unless you're a tall and heavy bastard, the stock suspension once well sorted (basically adjustments), will work fine even with a very spiritual riding. I've taken that heavy bike on the track a few times and it fared very well despite its weight.
So on the street, just match your skills to a sporty ride and don't worry about lowering anything.
But if you drop the rear, do the same to the front to compensate if not it'll handle like a 3 legged donkey.
If you feel too forward on the handle bar, there are aftermarket ones that will rake you back a bit but the factory brake lines will only allow about an inch so beware.
Get used to the bike for a month or so and you'll know where to improve things to your ergos...

Thank you for the advice. I would lower both front and back if I went that route. Should I soften the rear suspension at all, due to my lower than average weight? Or is should I just leave it they way it is and not mess with it.
I also sent okuraner a PM about handlebar risers.

Welcome aboard!

Search for some of the suspension posts about rear suspension setup. Normally the rear spring is wound up at least halfway, first stop is to unwind it completely, lowering the pre-load, that might just give you what you want with no expense :-)

Welcome aboard.

As Sidrat says the factory setting is around 30mm of Preload - back this off by at least 5mm and it’ll sit further into the spring travel without you on it. You may have to possibly go a couple of clicks out on rebound (bottom on the rear) because it’s not fighting that extra springiness.

Standard preloaded spring length with the wheel off the floor is around 160mm - check this length first !

sidrat wrote:

Welcome aboard!

Search for some of the suspension posts about rear suspension setup. Normally the rear spring is wound up at least halfway, first stop is to unwind it completely, lowering the pre-load, that might just give you what you want with no expense :-)

Correct me if I am reading this incorrectly, but are you suggesting that I make the spring as soft as possible (moving the adjustment rings all the way to the top)?

Steady on there Bayerische! :-)

The factory settings have quite a bit of preload and will offer the bike up for a geared up rider of around 80kg - as you are 63kg it is likely that the suspension is not settling enough (sag) with you on it and reducing spring preload could make it more accommodating for your (I was your weight at your age) weight.

Get on YouTube and search for ‘motorcycle setting sag’ before you start fiddling.

For suspension, you shouldn't really use less preload to change seat height. Lots of people do it ... it does get the bike lower to the ground ... but going way outside of proper settings will make the suspension action worse.

I'd suggest:
Rear Suspension:
You need a helper, pull up on the rear of the bike (if you don't have a stand that gets the rear wheel off the ground)), they measure a point from frame to the carc, write that down.

Then you get on the bike, helper measures again, same reference points from frame to carc, that difference (sag) should be a total of 30mm-35mm (you and the bike, vs. the bike pulled up).

Front Suspension:
You need that full extended measurement, either use a front end lift, or put the bike on the side stand, pull up on the handlerbars while the help measures the full extended forks. (The measuring point doesn't need to be that specific, just consistent between measurements, like from the bottom of the fork seal to some point on the lower casting)

Get on the bike, helper measures again, sag with you on bike vs. no weight should be around the same 30mm-35mm.

You have spring preload adjusters front & rear.

So I'd get to those numbers, back your compression clickers all the way out, and give it a try.

If someone was doing a track day, they might shoot for 25-30mm sag, or maybe even 20-25mm. But the 30-35mm range will get the bike lower for you and still be in a good target for the suspension to work ok.

If the bike does not turn in quick enough with those settings, then you could slide the fork tubes up higher in the clamps (lowering the front of the bike).

If those sag numbers don't get the bike as low as you'd like it ... how much lower do you need? 5mm? or 25mm?

If you are looking for an extra inch or so at that point, I think you should consider getting the bike professionally lower by a suspension shop/expert. They will shorten the fork and shock internally.

You could always try setting sag to 40mm or 45mm but it really will not perform well at those numbers.

bayerische wrote:

sidrat wrote:

Welcome aboard!

Search for some of the suspension posts about rear suspension setup. Normally the rear spring is wound up at least halfway, first stop is to unwind it completely, lowering the pre-load, that might just give you what you want with no expense :-)

Correct me if I am reading this incorrectly, but are you suggesting that I make the spring as soft as possible (moving the adjustment rings all the way to the top)?

Yes that is exactly what i am suggesting.

Then you also need to soften the compression and rebound, as they are also too fierce if set as per the manual, have a quick search on here to find the information.

Thank you for the advice. I would lower both front and back if I went that route. Should I soften the rear suspension at all, due to my lower than average weight? Or is should I just leave it they way it is and not mess with it.
I also sent okuraner a PM about handlebar risers.[/quote]



Welcome,


Since you're getting risers from Okuraner, you may as well get a Tank ring for a tank bag, might save a bit on shipping.