What model # used Ohlins shock?

Hi All,

I really want to upgrade the suspension on my bike and after reading all I could on the subject (big thanks Uzidzit), I still have a couple of questions.

I realize the Matris is a fine shock and I would love to get one, but I am hoping to save some money and get somewhere near that level of tune.
I see a few people have swapped out an Ohlins that was used on an Aprilia, just wanted to get some feedback and more info, such as:

Exact specs/ model # for the Ohlins shock and what bike / year it came from?

Does it have a longer stroke than stock or the Matris?

Is it even worth trying to save a few $$ as opposed to getting a Penske built with a longer stroke?

If I do get the Matris, is the standard shock any good, or do you recommend the "R" version?

If it was your money, what would you buy?

Thanks!
Joe

After playing internally with my Matris R, the suspension guru said it was the best he had seen.
Told me if I want to race sell my Guzzi, and keep the shock.

It had been supplied to a GRiSO owner who is heavier than me, I've added it to Bella but am still trying to tune it. I ride very rough roads (goat tracks really) with very tight corners, meaning low corner speeds.

If you have one built to your weight & riding specs, don't over estimate your riding expertise as it may end up being very firm. It will be fine if your roads are smooth.

I have the R version, hi & lo speed compression, rebound, hydraulic pre-load and ride height adjustable.
My advice, go for the best straight up. I started with a standard GRiSO shock on the Bellagio, then I upgraded the GRiSO shock with internal mods and new spring.
Those two exercise's were a waste of time and money as it was still unsatisfactory. Basically the standard shocks can't flow enough oil to be fine tuned.
I never learnt, tried to save money buying an unused shock that somebody else didn't need. Bought an AUD$1800 shock for AUD$1200 and by the time I have it re-shimmed for the 3rd time it will have cost me another $1000.

Its a bloody good unit, handles fantastically, I'm just searching for more compliance so my arse doesn't get bounced out the saddle on the big bumps.
My favourite road between Legume and Woodenbong is called "Bitumen Cross" or Bumpybong. Like a motocross track with a tar surface.

I have the Matris 'K' version. It transformed my GRiSO. No more kidney mashing!

No hydraulic pre-load, but I only ride solo, so not a big deal.

Hey, Just went for a 300k ride and proved what a slow learner I am.
Been searching for suspension Nirvana, my suspension guy reckons no more shimming required, just fine tuning.
Trying to get my head around hi verses low speed compression damping. The big bumps have been a worry, even physically hurt some times. So I've been working on the theory if I hit a big bump and the shock wants to/needs to move quick, it is all hi speed adjustment etc.

Initially I would get a lot of movement, very fast then it would just firm up so quickly. I wondered if the rising rate linkage was to blame. Anyhow I finally pondered that both hi & lo speed damping would have to work in unison, on every bump. I then wondered if the hi speed was too soft, so the shock was collapsing too quickly, but obviously it has to slow down and stop within 40mm of total shock shaft travel. Doh! And the low speed might be set too hard, so when it finally came into play it was like ........................... hydraulic lock! ..................Bang! Ouch!

So I added a few clicks of hi-speed and took out a few clicks of low speed simultaneously.
BIG DIFFERENCE. Then did it again,.................. too much. OK so lets wind it back a bit to previous iteration and now just move one dial "one click" at a time.

I rode Australia's roughest road called Bitumen X, Bumpybong or to the Mexicans it's "the Mellon Patch" ..... TWICE!
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When you get your head around it, the Matris R is awesome.

Try braking into a corner at 120k, gripping the tank with ya knees but the bike is constantly air borne, feet off pegs and arse in the air. But the bike, or the suspension at least was coping without banging or crashing. Ok that was the worst corner that caught me out, but the hits weren't painful and it was all controllable. Sort of.  

Thank you all for the replies, definitely good info.  Problem is, I guess I already know that the Matris will be great, was hoping someone who fitted an Ohlins or similar would chime in with their experience.
Of course then there is the question of if Matris, is it really worth the extra $ for the R version?  Anyone ridden both?
I thought I saw in another thread which I can't seem to find that there may also be a viable option from a Suzuki?  
Thanks again,
Joe

Joe, don't over think it. If you can afford the Matris 'R', go for it. If not, get the 'K' model. You won't be disappointed. Oh, and when you order, slightly underestimate your weight. Word is on the street that they tend to over-spring.

I bought my Matris R from a G-Tech member who was 245lb (110kg), I'm 220lb (100kg) so the spring should have been in my ballpark, excuse the pun.
Shock came with 120N/mm which really did bust my balls, so I had to go back to a 105N/mm spring.

My guess is Matris are solely focussed on racing and assume that we are all going to be riding smooth roads at blinding speeds, trying to contain 200hp at extreme angles of lean. Even my suspension Guru in Brisbane had to retrain his thinking to get my Matris to work for me.

I cruise the straights at 120 or less dodging the tax collectors, my favourite corners are tight and slow with average mid corner speed around 60 - 80kph. My angle of lean would probably max at 40 degrees. I am surfing the torque curve on part throttle, rolling on then rolling off, maybe using 50hp max. Oh the bumps, the fucking big bumps. Race suspension settings just get you sideways and airborne.

We are a niche market, they build high end shocks for high end use and in their minds, if you are going to ride slow as fuck (compared to Marqez) what is wrong with stock? So adding to Beetle's comment, they over dampen as well.

Hot tip, order yours with a 3.0mm or larger shock shaft jet.

Matris really do not under spring, they do tend to over damp for a road shock for rough roads, sorry been gone a few days for work...the Penske is really the best ticket for the dollar for the GRiSO.. the VDP piston makes good and solid tracking and really excellent control over big hits.  I had no issue with the Matris R i got for the Stelvio (I did go up a spring rate).  If you have a Penske done just ask them to build it with a 1/4" longer stroke than their standard build sheet but to bottom out at the same length as std. build.  this will raise the back end about 1"  ask them to do a VDP piston.  Go AHEAD and get a triple clicker though, you may not use the adjustability much but having high speed damping adjustability is really nice when you go someplace that is a lot rougher or smoother than normal...I tend to think that the triple is more important for comfort on the road than for control and going fast on the track (at least till you are quite good)  I set my Penske up to be a VDP on compression and linear on rebound which seems to be good on the semi rough mtn roads, ordering a Matris with a larger jet would do not harm, their adjuster does not cross talk much and I really did not see the need in the Stelvio, But I am a little more open than I would like on the hSPD adjuster

If you have a look at this site.

Click here

The translation reads

• Original lower triple clamp and fork tubes manufactured by Ohlins from Aprilia Tuono 1000 R
• upper bracket Fa.Spiegler for Aprilia RSV 1000 R
• Rizoma tapered handlebar Fa
• spring leg of the company Öhlins from an Aprilia RSV 1000 R (Rear) ?

There are two types linkage on the rsv 1000 and tyey a have quite different stroke, I think it will be this one:

RSV 1000 R 2004-09 AP 351 S46PR1C1LS Rear Shocks 313 +3,5/-2,5 63,5
01093-31