Using ThreeBond instead of a gasket?

I am getting ready to take the engine out and pull off the rear main flange to fix the well-known oil leak. I have read these excellent instructions from Pete on another thread:

Quote :

Once the gearbox and clutch are off the rear flange has to be pulled.

Then all traces of the gasket must be removed from both flange and case.

Now the oil feed dowel needs to be filed down so it's 1-2mm shorter. Make sure NO debris is left in the oil gallery.

Reinstall the flange with a new o-Ring on the dowel WITH NO GASKET, GET IT? NO GASKET! but the flange sealed with a thin smear of Threebond 1211.

The two bottom bolts should be replaced with ones 5mm shorter.

If a gasket is used it WILL leak again, no ifs or buts, it will leak!

The above procedure if carried out correctly WILL cure the problem, first time, every time. If your shop chooses to ignore these instructions your gear box will be in and out like a rabbit's cock on the vinegar stroke until they get it right.

First of all, I want to thank Pete for teaching me something new: I googled "vinegar stroke" and I am now more enlightened on these matters

But to the point: I bought a tube of ThreeBond 1211, and the directions are very vague on how to use it. I don't know if you're supposed to spread a layer and let it tack up before assembling, or just go ahead and immediately put the flange in and torque the bolts. I'm concerned that the latter approach will just end up squeezing the stuff out the edges.

Any wisdom on how to apply ThreeBond 1211 in this situation, from Pete or anyone else who has done it successfully?

Firstly, DON'T squeeze it on like toothpaste! Really, the thinnest smear is sufficient. It's only to seal minor imperfections in the two mating surfaces, it's not like putty!

Secondly be very careful with its application around the oil feed dowel. You don't want any getting into the oil gallery.

Thirdly, when reinstalling it use a couple of long 8mm bolts as alignment dowels through the flange holes and into the block before tapping the flange in with a dead blow hammer until it s close enough to use the mounting bolts to pull it down in a crosshatch pattern. Also make bloody sure that the seal lip doesn't get hung up on the end of the crank as it goes over it or you'll be going back in again next week!

Pete

PS. No need to let it cure before installing and some will squeeze out but you want the amount to be minimal, hence the thin smear of sealant.

That's exactly what I needed to know, thanks once again Pete! It's good to know the "gotchas" to watch out for; these are the things you don't learn from the service manual.