Error ECU 25 - P0352

Hi, I'm getting an alarm, "service" text displayed at the dashboard and the red triagle lights up...
At the dashboard, reads as error "ECU 25", described as "Ignition coil 2 C.C. Gnd" in the manual... Guzzidiag reads error "P0352 - Too low".

The alarm apears just after the engine starts, and clears itshelf after a while - "service" text disapears, red light goes off.

This started some time ago...
At first, the alarm was so brief, that I had no time to read the code at the dash as it shows only "active" ECU errors - I've seen it as "stored error" using Guzzidiag.
Now, the alarm stays active for about a minute, or more... I have the time to look it up at the diagnostic menu at the dashboard, but doing so (looiking it up), the alarm does not clear itshelf - even if it disapears from the active errors - the only way to clear the alarm is doing so using Guzzidiag.

I think coil 2 is the RH one... anyway, I thought that swaping right and left stuf, the alarm would folow the problem, showing error at coil 1. So, I swaped RH and LH coils, spark plugs, plug cables... The error is always the same - Coil 2. Took a look at the ECU pins, looked fine, sprayed them with contact cleaner, no change.

I realy do not want to mess with the wiring loom, so...

any ideas?

btw, anyone knows the meaning of "Coil x C.C. Gnd" error?

Check continuity between pin 2 of the RH coil connector and pin 10 of the ECU 'M' connector.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

beetle wrote:

Check continuity between pin 2 of the RH coil connector and pin 10 of the ECU 'M' connector.

Thanks Beetle

Not knowing witch is the "pin 2", I've seen at an electical diagram, that the one cable that goes to the ECU is a blue/green, the other is a brown/red that goes to the injector relay...

There is one difference, between the image and my ECU... The green/blue wire is not connected to the pin 10 at the low-right of the immage, its goes to pin 10 thats top-left... Looking at the ECU frame oriented as the immage, the "M" connector ( "marrone?" = brown ? ) is at the left side and the "V" connector ( "viola?" = violet - looks blue to me) is at the right.

Anyway, I've stripped a piece of UTP cable, and inserted a piece of wire from that in the connetor holes, as my multimeter leads are too thick for this...

Measured 0,1 Ohm resistance across the green/blue wire - same as shorting my multimeter leads.

The strange thing is that the bike starts and revs up normaly, although I'm not riding as this alarm makes me feel that a dissaster is waitng to happen...

I forgot to mention - when swapped the RH-LH spark plugs, inner and outer, their colour was almost identical, and almost perfect (I think) - just a bit glossy...

Yes, the blue-green wire, sorry. I didn't have an image of the connector, only the ECU.
M=brown.


-

Actually, Coil 2 should be left side.
But your problem was "Gnd" = GROUND.
Its not the coil it will be your earth cable from the battery.

1. Remove starter motor cover and you'll find the earth cable connected by a 5mm threaded screw.
2. Remove the earth cable.
3. Drill the 'eye' out to 8mm
4. Attach to crankcase/gearbox mount just left & above original mounting point.

When mine shat itself, I also got left injector Gnd, starter motor Gnd, flux capacitor Gnd etc etc.

Er, no. Coil 1 is left. Coil 2 is right. Same as the cylinders and injectors etc. Left is primary in Guzzi speak in ECU land.

The error code actually refers to the grounding of the coil by the ECU to fire the spark.


-

Update (better late than later) :
Long story short, I measured about 2v voltage drop (loss) between the battery and the coils-pump-injectros junction. Having 13,5v at the battery (on charger) measured 11,5v at the junction. Used scanm5x to activate the loads.

Cleaned (almost) every connector, measured over 12,5v at the junction, the error is gone...

That was half of the problem, the other half is too hard (for me) to fix, as some wires should be thiker - like those of the main fuses, that are getting hot...

Embarrasing: AFTER opening the harness and measuring the voltages, I started the bike and touched/felt the wires and connectros. Of course, whatever feels hot has a resistance and a significant voltage drop - no need to measure anything to know that. This "feeling" test should have been the first step of the troubleshooting, not the last, stupid...