right hand TB adjust screw

I've read about not touching the sacred screw on the left TB but what about the nearly hidden adjust (stop) screw on the right TB? Can this be minutely adjusted for idle throttle balance?

No

Better to just read the tuning threads on the forum (rather than we go through this all over again). Short answer is (after valve clearance, TPS reset, shut both the air bleeds etc) to use the stop screw that is on LH or RH depending what side you all it (and not the connector rod or the sacred screw) to balance the high speed at somewhere around 4,000 rpm - I use gauges and ride around looking at balance across a range and adjust then recheck riding etc etc.....after that it's a simple adjustment of air bleed screw(only one allowed open) for fine tuning idle throttle balance; reset TPS again & Repeat as often as you want for perfection.....and if you have lambdas off there's always the CO to dick around with in the mix.

No. Do not touch either of the throttle stop screws or the linkage rod, ever. If the bike is misbehaving in some way there is another reason.

The ONLY things you touch on the TB's are the air bleeds and the bell crank adjuster screw on the LH throttle body.

Pete

thanks fellas, just curious

Good to see you pop up again here Luxel. Hoping Luxel (the dog) is still getting along ok.

- SD

I remember of having read a detailed howto concerning throttle body balancing, but can`t find it any more, could someone point me to right way please...?

When changing a map, would You always recommend balancing?

Not after reflashing. Definitely after tappet adjustment.

Just need to search for key words and surf around a bit...here's one with Pete's description [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Anytime you change a map, unless you've just done a tune up, (Yes, the whole thing!) it is best to go back to basics and start again.

I mean? How much effort is involved in checking the valve clearances, plugging in Guzzidiag and doing a TB balance?

Really though if your bike has been tuned CORRECTLY there should be no need to do anything after a remap other than clear the trims and re-set the TPS.

If though your bike has been 'Shaved Aped'? All bets are off!

The bike was serviced by Roland Däs 1000 km ago, including a special map for my BOS double gun and throttle body balancing. I have nothing to complain, the bike runs perfectly, but it takes  a good amount of fuel, consumption is about 6,3l/100 km. This alone doesn't hurt me but filling up the tank every 250 km is quite annoying. 

Now, as days get warmer here,  I have the honour to test another decent map (nah, no names who's providing this ). I'm not familiar with tuner pro till now, but at a first gIimpse I saw things like fuel difference maps and if changes were made here this would mean for me a different fuel delivery for every cylinder and as a consequence at least a new throttlebody adjustment. Don't know whether my theoretical thoughts are right. 

Balancing a GRiSO sounds quite easy, but till now I only did this with my caburator LeMans 1 and this in fact is a really easy 10 minute job. For this, I use a device which measures the negative pressure DIFFERENCE. If it's zero the cylinders are perfectly balanced. 

I'm actually dealing with this subject just to satisfy my curiosity whether my GRiSO has been perfectly balanced and for the case this would have been necessary after remapping, but as you mentioned, when only remapping it's wasted time.

Anyway, thanks a lot for the link which has now found a place in my favs. 

(Gosh, hope my English was not too bad!)

Your English is fine. Don't worry, there are people from all over the world here.

Oh, my Hindi is much more better than English *muuuaaah

How about pegging the throttlebody balancing procedure to the also pegged maintenance schedule thread? I think this subject is sort of no1 hit on searching the forum and an exposed place could help to find this easier.