Gas tank bubbles

I purchased a pristine 2012 GRiSO SE last year, however I have noticed more and more bubbles forming on the gas tank. It would appear to me this is caused by gasoline and is causing expansion of areas from the inside out. Anyone else experience this phenomenon?

Ethanol in fuel - stick 'epoxy' in search and follow that thread

It seems to be linked to the ethanol used in US fuel. GRiSO's as a rule aren't as bad as some of the other models I'm led to believe. In countries where ethanol can be avoided it seems the problem doesn't occur.

Pete

Thank you. Those were my thoughts about ethanol.

I've got two dimples and a small bump. They do seem to be getting smaller after a steady diet of alcohol free.

See Dont Want No Corn in My Gas

Unfortunately, as you likely know, most Liberty stations -- including that one in Middletown -- don't sell premium corn-free fuel.

Besides, stop worrying.  I just read today that the whole concept of ethanol causing damage is a myth.

Ethanol Don't Hurt Nuttn

Right.  

BTW, Pete and the other smart guys here, might one avoid the ethanol issue by buying regular and adding an "octane booster" or the like?  

I have managed to avoid (most) dimpling by adding STABIL or similar products.

Bill

Thanks to everyone. I just ordered the Caswell tank sealer kit, so I'll give that a try to eliminate more bubbles from appearing since it's darn near impossible to get 93 octane without ethanol.

Davetti,

I've written to other replies on this site. I have a 2014 (purchased new) that started to bubble the stripes on the tank after about 12 months. This is a fairly well known issue for these types of tanks if you do a little research. You will read that if you remove the tank and let it sit for 6+ months, it might go back into its original shape. I ended up buying a used 2013 tank from a wrecked bike and I coated it with Caswell Epoxy. The issues are definitely caused by ethanol gas, no doubt about it. Humidity and how often it sits can have some affect as I understand. I'm pretty much a weekend rider. The caswell tank is doing fine but I also moved to Georgia where I can get Marine Fuel (89 octane -non ethanol). So I use that exclusively now. The octane boosters and such have alcohol in them so they also absorb water like the ethanol does. So I stayed away from them.
I think the caswell will do the job. Be careful if your tank is swelled bad when you remove it as it may be hard to get back on. I have heard stories like that. If you want some pointers about how to do the caswell job, there are videos on the net to look at or send me a PM and I'll be glad to speak to you about how I did it. You get that sorted out and you'll have a great bike.

My '14 Norge purchased new end of last year sight unseen from Ohio was tank bubbled. Probably why it was $9k. Most likely from sitting with a tank of ethanol fuel in the dealers for nearly two years. Unbolted the tank to get to the TomTom plug and took two of us an immense effort to get back on. The local dealer replaced under warranty. Racetrack and Wawa both sell ethanol free in Florida.

So I took the challenge of taking off the tank, and luckily did so without breaking anything, yet. I have the Caswell tank sealer kit that I will be using, but when I look into the tank it looks as if it has already been treated with a yellow substance that appears to be applied evenly throughout. I took a photo to gauge your response to: is it treated or is this OEM? Not sure I know how to attach my photo but will try. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Thanks for any and all responses.

I did the Caswell coating of my 1100 about 3 years ago just as a precaution - I made a posting or 2 about it.
That is the OEM standard finish - I guess the ABS plastic equivalent of Gelcoat.
You've done the hard part - getting the damn fuel lines off !

Only advice I have is watch you don't block the small vent holes in the filler area. I did, and my tank did some strange shrinking/expanding, fortunately without any damage.
Might want to change the fuel filter, and check the hoses and clamps, while its apart.
Good Luck

I'd go with the Caswell. About 4 years ago I bought a new ethanol proof fibreglass tank for my Norton Commando Fastback. I would've preferred a steel tank but they weren't available at the time. You can get made in India steel tanks now that look ok as long as you don't look at the underside. Not neat at all. The fibreglass tank was good for a few months but then I had trouble with starting and poor running. Couldn't find the problem for a while until I noticed the petrol smell was bit off. Not that I sniff it on a regular basis.

The inside of the tank was a little sticky and when I cleaned the carby it was well and truly gummed up. I decided on Caswell as it is a two pack epoxy and the general consensus on Norton forums was that a one pot was useless. It's held up well and still no problems. But follow the directions to the word and make sure you cover the tank with some kind of wrap. If you get that stuff on your paintwork it's not coming off.

The thing is I never used ethanol but the tank still reacted. Or at least I believed I didn't use ethanol. My neighbour has an old Porsche and he said it's common knowledge in their club that modern fuels are all corrosive to some degree regardless of ethanol and this varies from country to country and sometimes by region. He also said Shell is the worst to leave sitting around in your fuel lines. After a month or two it turns to gel and gums up the system. Maybe that's just an Australian thing.

Davetti wrote:

So I took the challenge of taking off the tank, and luckily did so without breaking anything, yet.    I have the Caswell tank sealer kit that I will be using, but when I look into the tank it looks as if it has already been treated with a yellow substance that appears to be applied evenly throughout.  I took a photo to gauge your response to: is it treated or is this OEM?  Not sure I know how to attach my photo but will try. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Thanks for any and all responses.

That is one weird pic.

There is, btw, an interesting back & forth on this topic on guzzitech; see Tank Warp, Etc.

My GRiSO's tank seems way less affected by dimples -- tho neither has had much of those -- and swelling than my Norge's.

One poster said he's had success with using a ratchet "persuader" to bring the tank back into place.  Hmmm.  May try that, as I know that cursing and a rubber mallet do no good at all.

Removing, rinsing, drying, and that coating appear to be my next move(s).

That said, that's a winter job.  It's time to RIDE!

A Florida Norgester buddy arrived on his Norge last night and we will ride, beginning Wednesday, to the western N.Y. rally, then back down to Atlanta where I'll stay on eldercare duty for a week, and he'll return to Daytona. All back roads, all the time.  

Bill

I can also attest that the GRiSO tank is less susceptible to ethanol troubles than that of the Norge. My '14 Norge was already on its second tank when I bought it and it had already expanded to the point of leaking fuel. Keep your nose keen for fuel leaks Bill and enjoy the trip. Back roads are the best roads.

I looked at my original tank that I replaced with one from a wrecked bike (mentioned earlier in this thread). It has been sitting for more than 6 months now - empty and washed out. It appears to have gone back to the original shape. The bubbles in the tank decals kind of deflated. So if you let them sit long enough, they will "shrink" back.

I wish to thank all for your contributions. I successfully removed, treated and reinstalled the fuel tank with no ill effects. Not sure how the Italians do it (must have little hands) but reconnecting the fuel line and breather hoses was a bear. The only thing that went wrong during the whole operation was when I tried to reinstall the fairing sides. The one side screw inside the frame came off. Not sure how to fix that problem. Seemed as if it was installed with a rubber grommet. While I was add it, switched out the OEM air filter for a BMC. She's running great. Thank again!

"The one side screw inside the frame came off. Not sure how to fix that problem."

Same here, I just ordered a couple more from AF1 Racing in Austin.

[quote="guzziownr"]"The one side screw inside the frame came off. Not sure how to fix that problem."

Super glue is a wonderful thing.  

worked for me!

Guzziownr,
What is the item # you ordered? I only saw the rubber grommet in the frame section.

Thanks

Davetti wrote:

Guzziownr,
What is the item # you ordered?  I only saw the rubber grommet in the frame section.

Thanks

GU93231605 Antivibration bush.  Or you could buy one from a hardware store, commonly called "rubber nuts".

e.g. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Davetti wrote:

While I was add it, switched out the OEM air filter for a BMC.    She's running great.  Thank again!

I share this with everyone using or considering non-OEM air filters:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

The stock filter will flow more than enough air to give you all the horsepower the engine has to give. A non-OEM filter will only allow more dirt into your engine.