Where are stepper motors

From nowhere I'm back at the high revs & it'll drop or not (sometimes pushing throttle terminal under tank helps, sometimes doesn't); random etc. Now it feels even more like stepper motor as when it decides - all is back to OK - just can't predict IF or WHEN, else I'm slipping clutch and dropping into gear at insane idle revs and hard to ride slow speed (or not hard, but when ?).

Rechecked and seems many have just blanked it out the loop & cold tick over is OK; others have complicated bypass valves. Previously I cleaned it (carb cleaner) and ran OK for a few months, previously removed & cleaned valve bodies...etc. Looking to long term I 'assumed' there would be lots of replacement ones in market at reasonable price but seems 'out-of-stock' and the 'replacement part code' hiked the price North of GBP 300 for a part I have to pre-order with undetermined delivery times.

Please let me know best 'thinking' like:

- is the new one (whatever they changed) 100% sorted, so buy & wait ?
- clean it again & wait for recurrence ?
- Cut it out, it's no bother even cold?
- alternative therapy for the stepper or the rider ?

Annoyed of Manchester :-)

Is yours a plastic one or a metal one? Oddly enough the plastic ones seem to give fewer problems.

Other things. Are you sure it's tuned correctly? You haven't got both air bleeds open.

What map are you running? Although given your symptoms I don't think this is the issue.

If you stop the bike for a few minutes and then re-start it does the issue go away?

Pete

All tuned up and latest map for rollerised plus spoke exhaust. Only one air bleed open and It's the metal one ! I is same as previously but now feels even more like stepper as it can randomly drop back to normal. Sounds like best approach wil be carb cleaner again !

I've had this issue on my 1100 intermittently, usually when the bike gets very hot. Makes for entertaining gear-shifts !
I took the simple approach and cut the air bleed hose just behind the LH throttle body and put a 5/16in fuel tap in it.
Closing this drops the idle quickly.
What does this damn thing do anyway ? (Something about engine-braking on the overrun)
TBH I can't tell the difference between open and closed in normal operation.