More idle issues

jretanacr wrote:

My bike is having a problem in cold start. Wont sustain rpms and almost inmediately shuts down. Any similar experience?

Has it been rollerised? Who tuned it? Did they know how?

Pete

Conor W wrote:

Took pliers to my busted unit for you

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Using Connors excellent picture
Pete sent me one of the later plastic body valves that have a spring clip holding it together so I decided to cut my original metal one apart.
The motor and Valve is held into the alloy body just by an "O" ring, it pushed out quite easily once I had access to the brass valve tip. A hole drilled from the valve end parallel to the threaded shaft would let you drive it out with a small rod, but really I doubt you could get it any cleaner than just spraying some cleaner into the air box hose port. I find it hard to believe that oil would be able to gum it up, the screw thread is quite fine and the motor has a ball race for a thrust bearing (to the left of the silver motor hidden by the plastic connector)
If it is oil gumming the valve how about supplying the stepper from an oil free source of air?
The black plastic tube on the tip of the valve actually goes over the spring. It would be possible to put the valve back together if only you could power the motor up to retract the valve stem otherwise it won't allow you to put the actuator back into the body, I'm not sure if GuzziDiag will allow you to stroke the valve.

The 4 pins are connected to the two motor sections 1-2 and 3-4 should measure the same resistance, these two windings are operated in 4 steps +/-. -/+ to advance the motor (about 64 tiny steps per revolution looking at the motor)

Guest wrote:

 
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Looking at this picture (above) of the RH throttle body I see 2 ports one on the left which looks as though it comes from the Stepper valve and one on the right looks as though it goes to an air bleed screws similar to the earlier spine frame.
Is there a 3rd port I just can't see, the opposite of the one in picture below? 

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The second picture Guest posted of the LH bodyshows a pair of ports similar to an earlier body with Air bleed around the closed butterfly and a 3rd port nearest the head which I assume connects to the stepper.

If so wouldn't the air bleeds effect the idle speed more than the stepper or are they sealed also?
Looking at another picture I see Sync screw on the linkage so what are the air bleed ports for?
Is the sync screw on the linkage for high speed balance and the air bleed used for low speed sync just like a VII Sport
Does the other throttle body with only 2 ports also have an air bleed?

I can imagine setting the course idle with the two air bleed screws and the stepper fine tuning the idle

Are the air bleeds for owner adjustment or are they also sealed?

Do we have a link to the definitive balance procedure?

guzziownr wrote:

Don't touch the sacred screw!

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Sync Adjustment looks as though it changes the angle of the LH butterfly in relation to the RH butterfly?
Or does it in fact change the RH butterfly in relation to the Left, wouldn't that also move the TPS?
If so would you electronically reset the TPS after doing the throttle balance?

What about the Air Bleeds, what are they used for or are they sealed with paint also?

I can see the sacred screw setting one butterfly angle at idle but what happens to the air flow if one or other air bleed is opened, if it's so critical not to mess with it then the air bleed has to be sealed also, no?

Sorry about all the questions I'm just trying to transition from an EV & VII Sport which were both different

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

Or does it in fact change the RH butterfly in relation to the Left, wouldn't that also move the TPS?
If so would you electronically reset the TPS after doing the throttle balance?

Yes. If the TPS had been installed on the left TB, you'd never need to reset the TPS after a balance.  

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What about the Air Bleeds, what are they used for or are they sealed with paint also?

They're not sealed. They are used to balance at idle. Only one should be open.

Thanks Mark.
I subsequently found the "Throttle Body Balancing" thread

Just to chuck something else into the Idle issue mix, I did a recent service took off the tank to change the inner plugs put back on and the bike started idling between 2-2.2k rpm so off with the tank and checked nothing snagged kinked etc...

Spent that night reading up about stepper motors on here and the other site, and remembered I had been having some battery related starting issues but had kept it alive via an optimiser,  so tried replacing the battery and bingo nice steady idle

Maybe the duff battery was providing a fluctuating current causing the stepper to freak itself out, dunno but I have a beautifully running bike now, especially since its new map.