CARC and swingarm service

bahamazoo wrote:

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or you could spend $20 at Bunnings for a garden sleeper and some corner brackets...

I like that Idea plus you can get a sausage sizzle (sandwich) while you are there

I just doooooont want to do this.........

Bulldog9 wrote:

I just doooooont want to do this.........

I don't either, but I know it needs to be done before my riding season get under way next month, so I wll have to do it within the next 3 months. I am just glad there is the tutorial to show how to do it. Thanks to those who have posted it up

Bulldog9 wrote:

I just doooooont want to do this.........

take the plunge its not as hard to do as it seems :-)

Guys I am quite ham fisted-actually pretty good at pulling things down, however the the reciprocal bit is my down fall. I read the tutorial several times, noted carefully the pictures and after literally 3 months procrastination did the business. It was quite straight forward and everything went as per instructions. So, just have a crack, once done you have real piece of mind.
The next job I am equally putting off is changing over the alternator belt, still only 2 months into my putting off period, will gird the loins in the next month or so.
Look out for a please help post.

Now that I am on my third GRiSO I have to do this again. It was funny reading my own post to figure out what to do. Suppressed trauma? Should be easier this time as I know what not to do.

Hi there all/my 1st post/ tks for the info re rear shock replacement from a Stelvio for a GRiSO, but I,m too late, the last GRiSO in town got sold whilst I was checking this mod out before I spent the cash!! Buggar!!!!I,m too oild to live with the GRiSO rear suspension travel and the Stelvio shock wud have been great..Oh well I,ll just stick around and poss a good 2nd hang one may appear soon.

Something I keep forgetting to put up in the classified section is that there’s one owned by a bloke in Bungendore for sale. I know the bike’s history, I rollerised it, the owner isn’t a twonk. He’s asking $10.5K but that is probably negotiable. His number is there and once I’m back from WA I can negotiate if you like.

Pete

“For Sale:
My beloved 2009 Moto Guzzi GRiSO 1200 8V
Registered until 12/07/18
Currently at approx 32,100km
New Braking front rotors(same as factory, just without the MG logo. The original left one had a slight warp - maybe a disc lock had been forgotten once? - so I replaced both)
Genuine Moto Guzzi Termignoni pipe(baffle currently in, but removable), and tuned to suit(no ill behavior, this one!), small CNC’d alloy barend mirrors, aftermarket rear shock(Matris) and everything else is as the Italians spec’d it.
The previous owner, a mate known to me, had the suspension done to suit his weight(approx 100kg), so it’s stiffer than standard, but still comfortable for my 78kg. The engine has been looked after Peter Roper at Moto Moda and has been ‘rollerised’ (Moto Guzzi aficionados will understand this is a must).
The bike comes with all original books, two keys, rear stand, front ‘engine stand’, a 20L drum of Penrite to suit that is approx 3/4 full and original mirrors and standard alloy pipe. If you’re the lucky new owner, you also get a fleeting view in the rear view mirror of me, crying.


I really don’t want to sell this beautiful machine, but I’ve managed a meager 600km in 18 months of ownership and the times car for some space saving measures in the household. I’m not going to let it go to someone I feel won’t look after it or appreciate it, nor will I firesale it off to some crazy lowballer. This piece of Italian art is just gorgeous and won’t disappoint, however if it’s not in your wheelhouse, I appreciate that too.
Located close to Canberra, I will allow test rides to two types of people: ones that come to me personally recommended by the few people I would trust with my bike and ones that have the full price in cash to let me hang on to whilst they test ride. Bank cheques will need to be cleared before you even get a go around the block and if you try one of those escrow PayPal, have-your-mate-pick-it-up-because-you’re-overseas BS scams, just don’t bother.
I’m serious that I love this bike. If it doesn’t sell, I won’t be too upset!
Contact me on 0414484171 or at [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]”



















I have another 6-8 photos, but I’m guessing this might do initially...?

Bulldog9 wrote:

I just doooooont want to do this.........

Bulldog...I completed this a few months ago on my '15, it wasn't bad at all. Depending where you are in the Mid-Atlantic region I'd be willing to help you out. I'm outside of Philadelphia and have the tools, greases, and fabricated stands to do the swing arm service.

Best regards - Don

Kiwi_Roy wrote:

Fair enough I used a hydraulic equivalent. I found it not very safe as it's almost at the point of tipping and I wasn't able to fix the front wheel down on the large slab of concrete in our underground garage.
That's when I came up with the lifting plates, 4 x 2 legs fixed to the Luigi hole that would stand on the front and back of your jack. Sitting on two legs about 20" apart it's very stable. Note: I have a slab of wood on top of the jack.
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The later version doesn't need a jack, it lifts the rear straight from the ground with little effort and allows access to the swing arm pivot.

I might be stupid but if the footpegs stay in place for this option, wouldn't the Becker Technik stand Work as well?

And if they don't stay, what prevents the wood to rotate around the pipe and the bike tipping back down? Is the weight of the bike and the cross section enough to prevent that?

The bolt through the frame stops it rotating. Plus the footprint of the timber..and the massive weight of the GRiSO...and the fact that there is two of those big lumps of wood.

The Becker Technik stand works great. But so does the Kiwi Roy special. And it costs about $20.

Oh ok. Since so many here seemed to have the attend I thought that there was a reason not to use it. So I should be able to grease my bearings using mine, right?
I have to read the procedure once again (and again, and again ... Until confident enough)

If the HB stand picks up on the 'Pork Chops', the footrest hanger plates, then no, you won't be able to use it to support the bike as they have to be removed to access the swingarm spindle and bearings.

OK I'm gonna find a way. I was thinking to weight the front wheel with a heavy bag of sand and use a jack to put the sump on a wooden support.
Now to the procedure I have some more questions:

@Pete: I read that it's a good idea to put loctite wicking on the thread of the pinion of the bevel box. Is this doable by just separating the CARC and put loctite from the opening there:
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Or do I need to drain the oil and open the sucker? If you have any how-to, to help a complete beginner, that'd be great!

What should I use on the CARC/Swingarm interface when putting it back together? Simple grease? Glue?

When reassembling the CARC/Swingarm, is there a locking mechanism between the driveshaft and the splines or do I just need to slide them onto each other ?

Thanks in advance

Gimme a few hours.

Thanks Pete. Appreciate it

Evil,
On jacking up the bike: I have my GRiSO in a heavy duty (Baxley sports chock) wheel chock. I took off the muffler, loosened the back wheel bolts then strapped the front wheel to the sports chock and jacked it up under the sump. I think I may have had to hold it down a little while my buddy jacked it up. But once we got the wheel off it was steady as there was more weight off the rear of the bike.
Good luck and keep the instructions handy while your doing the job.

JohnA wrote:

Evil,
On jacking up the bike: I have my GRiSO in a heavy duty (Baxley sports chock) wheel chock. I took off the muffler, loosened the back wheel bolts then strapped the front wheel to the sports chock and jacked it up under the sump. I think I may have had to hold it down a little while my buddy jacked it up. But once we got the wheel off it was steady as there was more weight off the rear of the bike.
Good luck and keep the instructions handy while your doing the job.

Thanks for the info! I have limited garage gear and no chock. I was thinking to porceed as follow:

1. put the bike on the becker stand,
   
2. remove the muffler and wheel
   
3. Put a jack with a thick wood plank under the sump
   
4. Lift the bike enough to put the wood plank on two bricks for support
   
5. remove the jack
   
6. put a heavy bag of sand on the front rim
   
7. remove becker stand
   
8. do the swingarm greasing
   
9. put the wheel back
   
10. put the becker stand back
    
11. remove the sump support
    
12. remove becker stand and put the bike on side stand
    
13. drink a beer
    

Is that too dangerous? Should I try to find the tools to fabricate the wooden support that is described on this thread?

The GRiSO sump is a long way forwards of the centre of gravity so if you lift under the sump you need to hold the front end down very firmly - one bag of sand may not be enough.

Chaining it down to a chock that is bolted into the floor is good,
supporting the bike with a rod through the 'luigi hole' works well.  
If you have a very strong garage roof then you could support the bike from the rear frame while jacking it.

Ok! Noted! Thanks for the warning. I'm very new to all this. I'm principally a mountain biker and these tend to be much easier to secure when working on them. I'm really appreciating any tips you guys are giving me.
I would be very very sorry if my beautiful GRiSO was to fall down without a rear wheel while I'm laying down under it to spread some butter on its private parts.

FWIW I never weight down the front end. Without rear wheel, just a plank and brick under sump seems fine. With rear wheel on (or for extra safety) I use an axle stand under the front joint point on the suspension wishbone...or frame crossbeam if you remove the wishbone etc...

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Paul how do you get it high at the back of the sump like that?

I could not get my trolley lift in centrally at the back there as it hit the stand and exhaust on the other side.

Evilgarfield wrote:

OK I'm gonna find a way. I was thinking to weight the front wheel with a heavy bag of sand and use a jack to put the sump on a wooden support.
Now to the procedure I have some more questions:

@Pete: I read that it's a good idea to put loctite wicking on the thread of the pinion of the bevel box. Is this doable by just separating the CARC and put loctite from the opening there:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]


Or do I need to drain the oil and open the sucker? If you have any how-to, to help a complete beginner, that'd be great!

What should I use on the CARC/Swingarm interface when putting it back together? Simple grease? Glue?

When reassembling the CARC/Swingarm, is there a locking mechanism between the driveshaft and the splines or do I just need to slide them onto each other ?

Thanks in advance

OK, on the subject of adding a bit of loctite 290 to the pinion nut the answer is yes, you can do it without taking it to bits but you don't just squirt a load of it down the throat of the seal holder!

If you look down between the pinion and seal holder in good light you will see the peg nut. Stand the bevelbox up so you can see down there with the pinion facing upwards and then using something like a long, thin screwdriver or even a satay stick positioned on the highest point of the threads of the pinion and nut dribble a few drops of 290 down the stick. As it touches the threads it will wick its way around and hopefully penetrate down the threads,(It is specifically designed to do this on loaded threads.). Leave it sitting for a few hours for a preliminary cure. It won't cure properly until it warms up.

As for connecting the box to the swingarm I use nothing or the thinnest smear of Threebond 1211. Originally no sealant was used but customers whined about oil staining at the joint so the factory started glueing the bevelboxes on with silastic which is a pain in the arse and makes them much harder to remove.

To hold the bike up. go in the attic of the work area. Put a board or pipe of sufficient strength from one rafter to the next, right over your work area. Punch a small neat hole through the ceiling, fasten a length of chain around your board/pipe so that it dangles just above the bike. Use two nylon straps to lift the bike of the wheel(s).

Or, do the same thing with what we Yanks call an engine hoist, or shop crane.

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This has turned out to be a real multi tasker.